NICKY CLARKE – A/W TRENDS 2011/2012

The feeling this season is about encouraging the women on the street to explore that part of her sub consciousness; those out-of-the-norm subliminal thoughts which she has never before transcended into her look/style.

This is the woman’s season, where the woman will become more powerful than ever and have the ability to take on a new personality, a new role.  Embark on these new roles with power, seduction, masculinity and control.

The pony tail is having its moment and never more so than now. It has spanned three seasons, rarely is there one hairstyle that has been so prominent on the catwalk than that of the ponytail.

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GIRL MEETS BOY

As seen at: Dolce & Gabbana, Marc Jacobs, Celine, Yves Saint Laurent

Boys will be boys and it seems girls want to this season. The look is more masculine, mixed menswear has been dropped into girls’ wardrobes with pinstripe suits, dropped crotches and waistcoats all seen at Dolce & Gabbana. There are typically masculine elements to the hair that still have an air of glamour, although masculine there must be something in there to keep it a little feminine, whether it be soft texture in the hair or tendrils pulled out around the face.  Quiffs at Dolce & Gabbana are more effective when hair sprayed in and compliment hair that has outgrown colour showing roots. A tightly pulled together twist/pleat at the back will give the look more potency and aggression but this must be pulled together informally. Deep side partings like at Yves Saint Laurent always nod to being tomboyish, pulling out a little sideburn makes the look more playful and adds drama. The low ponytails seen at Celine even though long can still feel tomboyish, combining a dishevelled texture with very low severe side parting.

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60s DRAMA

As seen at: John Paul Gaultier, Bottega Veneta, Alberta Ferretti, Victoria Beckham

The styles are chic and overstated and make a distinct nod to the 1960s. We always revisit key eras but it is how we approach them and style them with finesse that reinvents the way they are seen and the 60s is an era open for reinvention as much as any. The beehives seen at John Paul Gaultier are a statement; it says 60s and drama. You take that as your reference but pay attention to key details, the positioning of the parting, the flatness of the hair at the hairline and then explosion of volume. The perfectly manicured side partings at Alberta Ferretti are hair sprayed down to create decadence: all the things a woman should aspire too – perfect hairstyle for anybody with short hair and in particular a small delicate face.

 

 

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POWER PONY

As seen at: Marc Jacobs, Emanuel Ungaro, Prada, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Burberry, Christopher Kane

Marc Jacobs showing in New York so often sets the tone for the season. The chic androgynous ponytail was the hairstyle that got the editors talking and we’ve seen it so often.  Strict, clean, simple are all words used to describe this season’s ponytail but when coupled with the clothes seen at Louis Vuitton, Burberry et al it can all of a sudden become futuristic, androgynous, sexually charged and forceful. Nothing carefree.

The use of hairsprays, serums and gels really wet the hair down and when combed through add a different feel to the situation; the use of this texture and partings is essential for this season’s ponytail. Polished perfection that toughens up the look makes the feeling stricter.

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ACCESSORISING

Each season there is a new accessory, it’s usually been spontaneously thrown in last minute by a designer. Spring/Summer 2011 saw the kaftan and bandana become key, whilst Autumn/Winter 2010 you couldn’t look further than the many variations of headband, most notably the one’s seen at Prada and Karl Lagerfeld. For Autumn Winter 2011 there will be 3 notable accessory trends:

  1. FEATHERS – Think Steve Tyler. Dip dye colours are still rocking around and in some corners getting even stronger, coupled with feathers they add an extra clash to colour. Worn best on hair that has a slightly more lived in texture and is longer than the shoulders. Feather extensions are available to buy from various hair extension companies so look around for the best ones.
  1. METALLIC BARRETTES – At Alexander McQueen the head was covered in silver and black metallic barrettes in either linear patterns or crisscrossed shapes. It had the look of a helmet, almost robotic and added to the clothes seeming on the verge of being fetishist. Your client (and you) will wear hers either on one side, down the middle or accompanying a pony tail.
  1. AVIATOR SKULL CAPS – As seen at Prada the skullcap can be worn with sunglasses and should be in fur or wool. It creates a more dramatic feel to the styling and will make colour statements. Definitely the accessory to replace the conventional wool hat.