There was so much luxe and continuity with hair on the runway in Milan this season, its actually been my favourite week thus far, it was really strong for hair and key trends came out of that city alone.
We’re now starting to see some definite characteristics that have become apparent on the runway, in particular exposed ears. We are seeing such a strong movement in what has always been commonly avoided. Literally everything on the runway in Milan was taken back behind the ear. Whether it was up and loose, down and wavy or luxe, flat and clean, it went behind the ear.
Seasons past, taking hair behind the ear was a way of relaxing the look as a whole but now it’s come to the fore as a strong clean aesthetic as seen at Salvatore Ferragamo, where girls were sent down the runway with a deep side parted, clean flat wet sheen hair, all taken behind the ear.
Partings were dominant on the runway, Gianfranco Ferre opted for a v shaped clean parting taken off the face, sleek and wet again with exposed ears. Never has the parting been so strong, they were further endorsements of how flat hair has been this season and how flat it will continue to be so. The parting has predominantly been worn flat, strict and clean with a wet sheen texture, Roberto Cavalli slightly broke the mould and added a wave at the bottom but the hair was still controlled, behind the ears, flat. The Marco De Vincenzo girl was a perfect portrayal of this look this season, centre parted, tucked behind the ears strictly with a clean wet sheen texture.
The little knots at Iceberg really caught my eye, hair gathered at the nape and the lengths of hair rolled back on itself then tied with an elastic creating a loop were modern and contemporary but still strict and luxe.
One key trend that completely contradicted the fierce wet, flat, partings is that of the messed up, dishevelled knot. The Marni girls were sent down the runway like Marni girls…the girls in the office that throw their hair up into a low knot,very fuss free and charming. Emilio Pucci also adopted this aesthetic with the hair distressed, girly, tucked behind the ears and tied at the back of the head.
Bottega Veneta favoured this fuss free organic feel to the hair too, tendrils pulled out around the face for softness to accompany a tied knot at the back of the head.
Prada was cool, as cool as you’d expect. Hair was twisted into updo’s with the ends brought forward falling over the models foreheads like makeshift fringes to create a more ‘boyish’ adaptation to the look.
Gucci’s sleek knot at the nape of the neck seemed to incorporate the key trends we seem to be referring back too, centre parting, flat, behind the ear, high shine then a twist was added in the form of a straightened out hair extension that was added around the seem of the knot with the ends left out for shape to create almost a feather for drama. Still beautiful, decadent, and chic all the things a Gucci woman is.
Hair Accessories were few and fair between. Two of the biggest fashion house’s both favoured them, Giorgio Armani landed retro inspired updos finished with a mesh hair piece over the eye (ears of course were exposed). Dolce & Gabbana also went against the grain and opted for patterned scarves which were tied around the models heads exposing the hairline, hair was then gathered into chic elegant chignons and pleats. Moschino averted to a less strict aesthetic and created sixties inspired beehives with a looser texture.