As the build up to London Fashion Week is well under way we catch up with Nicky Clarke and get the hairdressers view point of one of the most anticipated weeks in the fashion calendar. If you are an aspiring hair dressers, look out for some of Nicky’s key tips and advice on how to break into the session world and getting involved with Fashion Week.
Q. What look do you predict we’ll be seeing a lot of?
Ponytails have been smashing it the last three seasons, maybe they’ve had their day for next summer 2012. The Spring Summer shows are always going to contain the obligatory beach, carefree tousled hair with the middle parting as that’s what the consumer likes. I was speaking to Matthew Williamson just the other day and he said: “ it’s all very well you doing off the cuff hair but my woman is sexy, I like sexy wearable hair” and he was referring to the former. We’re currently in the season Autumn Winter 2011/12 and the feeling this season is about encouraging the women on the street to explore that part of her sub consciousness; those out-of-the-norm subliminal thoughts which she has never before transcended into her look/style.
We saw three key trends:
Boys will be boys and it seems girls want to this season. The look is more masculine, mixed menswear has been dropped into girls’ wardrobes with pinstripe suits, dropped crotches and waistcoats all seen at Dolce & Gabbana. There are typically masculine elements to the hair that still have an air of glamour. Although masculine there must be something in there to keep it a little feminine, whether it be soft texture in the hair or tendrils pulled out around the face. Quiffs at Dolce & Gabbana are more effective when hair sprayed in and complement hair that has outgrown colour showing roots. A tightly pulled together twist/pleat at the back will give the look more potency and aggression but this must be pulled together informally. Deep side partings like at Yves Saint Laurent always nod to being tomboyish; pulling out a little sideburn makes the look more playful and adds drama. The low ponytails seen at Celine even though long can still feel tomboyish, combining a dishevelled texture with very low severe side parting.
The styles are chic and overstated and make a distinct nod to the 1960’s. We always revisit key eras but it is how we approach them and style them with finesse that reinvents the way they are seen and the 60s is an era open for reinvention as much as any.
The beehives seen at John Paul Gaultier are a statement, it says 60s and drama. You take that as your reference but pay attention to key details, the positioning of the parting, the flatness of the hair at the hairline and then explosion of volume. The perfectly manicured side partings at Alberta Ferretti are hair sprayed down to create decadence: all the things a woman should aspire too – a perfect hairstyle for anybody with short hair and in particular a small delicate face.
Marc Jacobs showing in New York so often sets the tone for the season. The chic androgynous ponytail was the hairstyle that got the editors talking and we’ve seen it so often. Strict, clean, simple are all words used to describe this seasons ponytail but when coupled with the clothes seen at Louis Vuitton, Burberry et al it can all of a sudden become futuristic, androgynous, sexually charged and forceful. Nothing carefree.
The use of hairsprays, serums and gels really wet the hair down and when combed through add a different feel to the situation; the use of this texture and partings is essential for this season’s ponytail. Polished perfection that toughens up the look makes the feeling stricter.